My visit to the Victoria branch of Mildreds is my first to London’s best-known vegan restaurant chain. And if “chain” sounds pejorative, Mildreds doesn’t have the feel of an empire. More a family of sister restaurants, an eco-enclave in London’s dining scene.
It takes 10 minutes to escape the cold grip of Victoria station and wind our way to the correct address. But when we get there, the vibe is good: welcoming, with fairy lights and an artistic touch provided by Picasso-style artwork adorning the lampshades and walls.
I’m vegetarian, so generally pretty happy with vegan menus. But my dining companion is a big meat-eater, so the pressure is on. I’m drawn in by their new £25 per person taster menu (two people, minimum) on offer in four of their six London locations, and by the prospect of lots of dishes for the table.
The happily culture-hopping Taste of Mildreds offer is designed by the vegan group’s top chef, Sarah Wasserman, to “showcase the best of the restaurant’s globally inspired menu”. It’s an eclectic selection of dishes, spanning Middle Eastern to South East Asian and Spanish, that backers say represents the Mildreds food philosophy.
Things start well. The arancini comes in a crispy coating that would make any Italian proud, served with a delightful smoky chipotle ketchup. Chief among the many dishes for me, though, is the salsa macha hummus, with candied pine nuts and pumpkin seeds, and smoky Mexican peanut chilli oil. You may need more pita, but only as it too is moreish.
The enjoyably chaotic mix also includes patatas bravas – triple-cooked potatoes with Turkish hot pepper sauce and garlic aioli. The two sauces balance each other out nicely. And the kimchi gyoza are some of the best meat-free dumplings I’ve had – pan-fried, with house-made kimchi and a sweet gochujang sesame dip.
But it’s the kiri hodi, one of the mains, that stands out as a joint winner (alongside the hummus) – a Sri Lankan coconut curry with sweet potato, green bean pilau and toasted cashews. The pickles pack a punch and add a nice contrast to the mint coriander chutney.
Two dishes are a minor weak spot. The cucumber herb salad needs more kick and the beetroot “thel dala” is supposed to be “spicy and pandan leaf-infused” but is essentially a very creamy red dip. They are perfectly edible, but not the stars of the show by any stretch.
This is nit-picking though, because taken together it’s a tasty bargain, particularly if you add a Mildreds desserts for £5 a person and a glass of house wine (including a very drinkable chenin blanc) for just £5.50. For non-drinkers, the mocktails show impressive complexity without being overly sweet, which is sometimes an issue with non-alcoholic drinks.
Desserts here are a highlight too. The saffron crème brûlée – a tough nut to crack as a vegan dish – is well-executed, with the saffron flavour coming through clearly and enhanced by puffed quinoa – a quintessentially vegan touch.
The sticky toffee pudding has that lovely wintery brown sugar note, with the added twist of burnt pineapple. Both desserts offer unique twists on classic dishes. I recommend ordering both if dining as a pair. Wasserman says the menu is great “whether you follow a vegan diet or not” and I think she’s right.
The Mildreds Christmas menu has just landed too. I’m keen to catch it, likely in the huge flagship branch in Soho, which has undergone a major (hopefully positive) transformation, expanding over three floors with individually designed dining spaces.
Founded in 1988, Mildreds has long been a front-runner in London’s plant-based dining scene. It has attracted a loyal following, including (we’re told) Sir Paul McCartney and Anne Hathaway. But the real litmus test, surely, is how the fully-vegan menu goes down with carnivores like my wife. The verdict? She’s thoroughly impressed and would go back.
Rather than relying on laboratory-themed meat substitutes, Mildreds focuses on creating dishes that celebrate natural flavours. That approach makes it a restaurant for everyone, not just vegans.
The new ‘Taste of Mildreds menu is available at these branches:
- Camden: 9 Jamestown Rd, NW1 7BW
- King’s Cross: 200 Pentonville Rd, N1 9JP
- Dalston: 1 Dalston Square, E8 3GU
- Victoria: 128 Wilton Road, London, SW1V 1JZ
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