I wasn’t sure what to expect as I headed for Bermondsey Street and the home of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET), but part of me imagined having to descend into a large cellar, the door opened only after the requisite number of knocks, with a carpet of corks lining its damp, booze-spattered floor.
In reality, though, it is a modern educational institution with actual students who know their Grenaches from their Syrahs. And, happily, as well as teaching the sommeliers of the future, the WSET holds tasting sessions for we mortals who know only that we prefer white to red.
I was there for Cheese vs Cake, a beverage and snack-laden tasting and showdown, with a very festive tone, hosted by WSET lecturer Ed Wicks. I felt very much as if I was on a campus as I passed through automatic doors rather than ancient saloon-shutters and walked up the brightly-lit flights of stairs to one of the classrooms.
It beat any I’d previously been in. In front of each student were cakes, six cheeses and six glasses, mostly pre-filled with delicious-looking nectars. We were encouraged to chat to those around us, who all appeared to be regulars – graduates from one kind of WSET tasting course or another. This was helpful for me, because my better-informed neighbour was able to preempt any clangers I might otherwise have dropped in this piece.
I was nervous at the start, because the very sight of panettone and stollen makes my eyes glaze over. But rather than the usual dry old European bread, lecturer Ed had provided the good stuff: for the first round, Panettone al Moscato from Milan was up against an incredible Gorgonzola Dolce from Lombardy, paired with a sweet, semi-sparkling Brachetto (an Italian red from Piedmont).
I won’t describe all the rounds because that would be far more interesting for me than for you. Suffice to say, with no spittoon, we happily worked our way through six delicious beverages, washed down with pleasant little cakes and some of London’s top cheesemonger produce.
We got merrier as the two hour class flew by. And it was educational. Did you know that the name panettone, as one leading myth goes, comes from a Duke of Milan celebrating the “bread of Toni”? Upon realising a cake had been burnt, one of the duke’s cooks of that name apparently whipped up a sweet dough substitute, which went down a storm in the masseria.
Even stollen has an endearing history. The traditional German Christmas bread dates back to the strictly Catholic Germany of the 15th Century. It was a breakout success after local bakers successfully begged Pope Innocent VIII to allow them to use butter in the bread they baked during Advent – until 1491, using any animal product was banned on feast days.
We tried a wine nearly as old as I am, a 1995 Sauternes from an estate classified as “premier cru” (the best in that French region, apparently), with our instructor explaining the noble rot (botrytis) process that creates these sweet wines. The grapes literally “raisin” on the vine, with the right kind of mould producing a very delicious result.
Throughout the session, instructor Wicks gave historical context for every product, explained how it is made and the variety of protected designations (less dull than it sounds). We punters/learners voted on which pairing was the winner. Despite being the abject amateur in the room, I’d do it again.
The course cost £50, which considering it was effectively a (sweet) meal with several drinks provided, is pretty good value. But what endeared it to me most was the enthusiasm of the lecturer and attendees, and the enjoyment of foods and drinks I would never have tried otherwise.
I’ll forgive the WSET for being a genuine training school, rather than the romantic speakeasy I’d imagined, because it has introduced me to some amazing cheeses from London cheesemongers La Fromagerie, and a Danish cherry liqueur I am very keen to get my hands on again. Perhaps I’ll just book in for another session.
Oh, and the victor in Cake vs Cheese, following the six rounds of tastings and voting, was cake. Democracy isn’t all it’s cracked up to be.
More info on WSET courses and tastings here. Follow Josiah Mortimer on Bluesky.
OnLondon.co.uk provides unique coverage of the capital’s politics, development and culture. Support the website and its writers for just £5 a month or £50 a year and get things for your money that other people won’t. Details HERE.